Any suggestions? holley efi. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. Always had to set idle above 950. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. 2. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. I believe because the TPS is not registering. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. nothing stays steady. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black - amazon.com Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. Let It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Please let us know how this works out for you! I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. The small rubber plug had a leak. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. If you use your handheld to go here: Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. IAC Pos.% = 0 Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). 1. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. We do that but most places don't. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. such high fuel pressure. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Super helpful and knowledgeable. It does this with the engine off. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. Thanks for the great question! The latest was changing the power brake booster.Today I drove it to work and no issues at all. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. That is not something I'd ignore. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. Car was running great initially. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. IAC Creeps To 100% - Holley Performance Products Forums The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. back to trying to zero down an idle. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. Price Point: $$$. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. I had this same exact issue. Sniper EFI - Holley But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. Overview. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Fortunately, these are much easier to solve. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. If you're having issues with your Holley Sniper IAC getting stuck at 20, there are a few things you can try to fix the problem. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. check out the. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. One of the best Ive seen so far. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. TPS% = 1 Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. Yes its at 95lbs, needless to say he promised a new regulator would be in the And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. Part# 538-13. The tps will not auto reset to zero. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. Do you have a PCV on the engine? When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. Thank you for your input. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. Add To Cart. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. Definitely not 90. That will at least tell you something. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. It is a common one. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. EFI Troubleshooting EFIand and EFI Tuning Tips - In The Garage Media A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning - Holley Motor Life Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. I am right back to where I started. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. It could be a couple of things. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Data logs show no EMI/RFI. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Tuning Your Sniper EFI System for Progressive Secondary Link Use Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. I tried adjusting my IAC up to 10deg in both directions with no change. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. Is this an issue to worry about? It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. Do you have any clue? To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. Hello Chris. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever What would cause the idle to faulter like that? )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. Several good bits here. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. I will let you know what the results are. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. check out the. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. i would have been happy to answer there. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). It's called tuning. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. Short drives is fine then it'll And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. Sniper EFI Update: Weeks Later, Do I Still Feel It Was Worth It? You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. Do please let us know what you find out! Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. My problem is low idle. Idle > IAC Kick. 63 bomb Give us a hand! I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot.
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